Giving Thanks

Yesterday was Thanksgiving. It was a beautiful day here in East Sandwich. The sky was bright blue, and, although the temperature was only in the lower 40s, there was no wind, which took away the bite that lower temperatures can, and mostly do, have around here.

The White Cliffs of Plymouth on Thanksgiving Morning
(As Seen From Our Beach)

Traditionally, Christina & Co. spend the Thanksgiving weekend with Lou's mother in central Jersey. This year was no different. Traditionally, TSO and I have Thanksgivinged with my cousin Al and his wife Kathy and their family and friends, or we've had a friend or two over to our former little house on the lake for dinner and a walk. So, what was Thanksgiving alone on a beach like for us? Well, we couldn't tell you because that didn't happen. Instead, we spent Thanksgiving at the Plimoth Patuxet Museums in Plymouth, Massachusetts. You know, that place where the Pilgrims enjoyed the first European Thanksgiving in this country. 

The Museums have been hosting Thanksgiving dinner since 1989. They have buffets and sit-down meals throughout the day. It's not cheap, and it sells out early. We bought our tickets back in July. In addition to dinner, the price also includes a two-day pass to the Museums, as well as the Mayflower II and other off-site artifacts. Plymouth Rock itself is free. By the way, it's more like Plymouth Stone. We visited the Rock many years ago and were shocked to see how small it is -- allegedly due to folks chipping away at it over the years. It's now protected.

Plymouth Rock
(Where's The Rock?)

Here's the Rock!

Our visit yesterday was limited to the grounds of the Museums. I dare say that the main reason people visit is to see the Pilgrim village, which has all the quaintness and charm that one would expect given our tendency to romanticize the past. 

Plimoth Village

There are actors/guides dressed in period clothing and speaking in period accents, some of whom lead period activities, and all of whom are ready, willing, and able to answer questions.

Paying Tribute to King James

Our Thanksgiving dinner was delightful. We were seated at a table for ten, but three people didn't show up, which allowed us to spread out a bit. Our fellow diners were from Florida, New Hampshire, and Washington, D.C. (originally, Michigan). 

We were given a card with The Story of Thanksgiving one one side and our dinner menu on the other.

Our meal was surprisingly good. I suppose that, having offered these dinners since 1989, in addition to hosting wedding receptions and other events throughout the year, Plimoth Patuxet has gotten the vibe and the food just right.

Pilgrim Entertaining Dinner Guests

After dinner had concluded, one of the Pilgrim men gave a lovely toast about gratitude. It was very moving, but I don't remember the words.

Toasting Pilgrim

Plimoth Patuxet has been embroiled in some controversy since the summer. The local Wampanoag have objected to what they perceive to be the Museums' prioritization of the Plimoth aspect over the Patuxet. I have to say that I agree with the Wampanoag. The Pilgrim Village is like a 17th century "Oz." It's well maintained, and the guides are authentic. Historic Patuxet was a disappointment. There were no period guides. We were told that they were home, observing a day of mourning. I get that, but, from what I've read, guides from local nations don't seem to be there as a rule. Instead, we were greeted by some very informative non-natives, who were sitting down slouched on parts of the structures. In fairness, however, I am certain that, had they been dressed in Wampanoag style clothing, there would have been strong objections to that as well.

The guides explained that we were in a representation of one family's summer living area, which comprised a cooking area and a dwelling. There also was a canoe being built. I can't remember the other structure, but it looked like a lean to. The summer dwelling had no cover on it, and there was no furniture inside. I found this disturbing because it does not depict the fullness of the dwelling. One of the guides told us that the furniture is removed, and the covering is taken down once summer is over because that is what was done. Well, I get that, but this is a summer site that people visit year round. Why can't they just leave things as is year round so visitors can see what the summer living quarters look like no matter the time of year? I'm sure the local Wampanoag are not objecting to the set up for no reason. 

As for the story of what happened that first Thanksgiving, the evidence of what actually happened, according to a guide, is found only one page of a writing by Edward Winslow called Mourt's Relation. Winslow wrote:

"our harvest being gotten in, our governour sent foure men on fowling, that so we might after a speciall manner rejoyce together, after we had gathered the fruits of our labours ; they foure in one day killed as much fowle, as with a little helpe beside, served the Company almost a weeke, at which time amongst other Recreations, we exercised our Armes, many of the Indians coming amongst us, and amongst the rest their greatest king Massasoyt, with some ninetie men, whom for three dayes we entertained and feasted, and they went out and killed five Deere, which they brought to the Plantation and bestowed on our Governour, and upon the Captaine and others. And although it be not always so plentifull, as it was at this time with us, yet by the goodness of God, we are so farre from want, that we often wish you partakers of our plentie." 

That's it. Among other things, people debate whether only the Great King Massasoit was invited and simply brought along all the other "Indians." They challenge the notion that this was the first Thanksgiving, as the local native people regularly had days of thanksgiving. The list is not insignificant. To me, however, what happened before and after this documented event is secondary to the meaning of the day itself in the here and now. The fact is that at least one Native American, Tisquantum (a/k/a Squanto), had assisted the Pilgrims in cultivating the land and that, when the harvest came, the Pilgrims and the Wampanoag, who had formed an alliance, gathered and enjoyed a three-day feast as to which both contributed food. What is wrong with that? What is wrong with spending one day a year remembering nothing more than the goodwill and gratitude celebrated 400 years ago? Do we reject the celebration of Jesus's birth because of the Crusades, Jim Jones, etc? Should Ramadan fall because of 9-11? Indeed, like Christmas, does anyone really even celebrate Thanksgiving for what it represents anymore? Hasn't it become more of an excuse for stuffing our faces and watching parades and football games? Very sad.

Sure, it's not always all that it's cracked up to be. We should give thanks every day, not once a year. Look at what goes on in our own families. There is drama. There are alliances. There are resentments. Despite this, many put their differences aside and manage to spend a day together giving thanks. And, yes, a good number of people don't. A good number of people spend it alone or under a bridge. But, does this mean we should throw the baby out with the bath water? We can always do better, but, just because we fail, that doesn't mean we should give up, beat our breasts, and wallow in our failures. Let's start with trying to do better. Maybe that can be added to the Thanksgiving tradition. 

This little rant is not directed at the Wampanoag or any indigenous peoples. Their grievances are real. They have been taken advantage of in terrible ways, by the earliest of European settlers, throughout the development of the United States, to the horrors of the American Indian boarding schools of recent history, to the tokenism of today. Indeed, even my justification of the Thanksgiving holiday itself may render me complicit in the continuing marginalization and disregard of our Indigenous Americans. For that, I apologize for my ignorant optimism.

Last summer, I visited the National Museum of the American Indian in Washington, DC. I was captivated by a beautiful sculpture by Edward Hlavka called "Allies in War, Partners in Peace." It features three persons from the American Revolution: George Washington, Oneida Chief Shenendoah, and Polly Cooper. Polly led a group of Shenendoah 400 miles from New York state to Valley Forge where they, once again, dare I say, "saved our asses" during another horrible winter. The sculpture is moving, and the story -- which few people know -- is as well.

Allies in War, Partners in Peace

We owe a debt of gratitude to our Native American brothers and sisters that can never be expressed adequately. We have sinned against them in ways that can never be undone. Is there anything we can do to atone? Can we at least have the conversation?